The eclectic nature of an Esteban Cortazar collection has almost become a brand signature in itself, the designer drawing on many and varied personal references each season to shape his unique sartorial vision. But on closer inspection, what may initially appear as a seemingly random selection of looks combine to create a rare cohesiveness, and autumn/winter 2017 was no exception, albeit it with a subtle twist.
The primary theme of the collection was summed up succinctly in the show notes as ‘lost and found’, with the designer revisiting and reimagining some of his archive pieces. “For me, it’s like, why can’t older pieces come back reinvented and be shown in other ways,” he explained backstage. Thus familiar satin neoprene hems, butter-soft leathers and poet-style smocks made a welcome return, reinterpreted.
Complementing these core pieces was a clutch of new designs, with a focus on fabrics. Playing heritage against the here and now, tartans, jacquards and foulards were shown alongside what was termed a digital quilt, with a print from the designer’s Instagram feed adorning the back of a pure white column dress.
Silhouettes ranged from the slim-fitting to the ultra-bold, complete with 3D flourishes, and looks were accessorised with faux fur-trimmed footwear and fellow Colombian Paula Mendoza’s striking jewelry.
The cohesiveness that came through this season was in the element of balance. Though the runway was peppered with statement pieces and conceptual designs, these were complemented in equal measure by more minimalist silhouettes, making for a diverse but considered collection that will undoubtedly appeal to the multi-faceted tastes of Cortazar's growing following.
Photos: vogue.com / theimpression.com