Chloé Spring/Summer '17

Clare Waight Keller gave showgoers and seasoned followers of Chloé something different from what they expected to see for its Spring/Summer ’17 show.  The clothes, although still as gauzy and romantic and frilly as ever, were sharper, more structured.

Keller described it as a new view on Frenchness and credited her new perspective to moving back to London. Sometimes one needs distance to see things clearly, and for Keller, it was a new sense of the Chloé customers’ competing good-girl bad-girl dualities.

There were childlike overalls with a bare back. And a simple white cotton laced top with undone laces at the sides. 

There was also a new pant shape which balloons into the ankles, finished with nautical touches. 

Big floppy bows on the shoulders on several looks looked girlish and sophisticated all at once. 

One wouldn’t be surprised if SS17 ends up being one of Chloé’s most commercial collections to date. It was certainly one of the most beautiful. 

Bottega Veneta's Anniversary Collection

This Milan Fashion Week season marked several milestones for Bottega Veneta. The luxury Italian house was not only celebrating its 50-year anniversary, but also 15-years under the creative direction of German-born designer Tomas Maier.

The celebrations began at Bottega Veneta’s Spring/Summer 2017 Show, held at Milan’s historic Accademia di Brera, where both men’s and women’s collections were shown together for the first time. Marking the house’s illustrious heritage, models past as well as present took to the runway, culminating in a finale with the legendary Lauren Hutton, who famously carried the brand’s intrecciato clutch in the film American Gigolo, arm-in-arm with current face Gigi Hadid. 

Photo: wonderlandmagazine.com

The woven clutch was one of 15 bags from the house’s rich archive that appeared in the show, which was filled with Maier’s signature figure flattering-designs. Clearly evident was the craftsmanship that forms the cornerstone of the Bottega Veneta brand, each perfectly tailored piece left purposely to speak for itself. To be a Bottega customer "you need to like something quiet", the designer revealed backstage, and his continued success as creative director lies in his deftness in marrying quiet, classic pieces with a fashion sensibility.

Following a standing ovation for Tomas Maier and his team, who joined him on the runway, anniversary celebrations continued long into the night at an exclusive dinner hosted by Kering CEO Francois Henri Pinault. Attendees included Vogue editors Anna Wintour and Franca Sozzani, actress Andie McDowell, Mira Duma and Carmen, a longtime friend of the designer and loyal supporter of the brand. 

Dominic Jones: New Creative Director At Astley Clarke

Photo: Medhi Lacoste / businessoffashion.com

Five-time winner of the British Fashion Council’s NEWGEN Award, Dominic Jones has just been appointed the new Creative Director of Astley Clarke. The British-born jeweler, 31, whose eponymous designs have a cult following as well as a celebrity fan base, joined the company in April, after he was introduced to Astley Clarke by Carmen.

"When Dominic first launched his own collection ... people responded to it immediately because it was beautiful and it was a luxury product but it was very connected to youth culture, and high fashion, in a way that fine jewellery hadn't been for such a long time," British Vogue Editor Fran Burns told BoF. "He will bring something unexpected, brilliant, contemporary and fresh and reach a whole new market for the brand. It’s just really exciting to see how that is going to unfold."

Dominic trained at London’s Sir John Cass School of Art and Design and worked with art collective Wowow before teaming up with business partner Alice Dellal in 2009 to launch Dominic Jones Jewellery. His acclaimed debut collection, Tooth and Nail, won praise from Vogue’s editor-in-chief Anna Wintour, helping to propel his designs into the limelight, and this inaugural line also inspired his subsequently launched DJ by Dominic Jones diffusion range.

With Dominic’s experience as a designer and sculptor, he will ensure oft-forgotten traditional English and European craftsmanship skills remain a focus, while the brand increases its appeal to a growing audience of modern, cosmopolitan, internationally minded women.

 Carmen believes the appointment of Jones will help the company tap into a younger generation of consumers. "Many businesses lack the creative energy that Dominic has for understanding his clientele and the whole generation of millennials who haven’t seen the area of jewelry as interesting, so I think there is lots of opportunity for growth," she says.

Trends At London Fashion Week

Experimental London never fails to hit an eclectic note, with designers pushing the boundaries in ways that reference the past, but look distinctively modern. Here are the top London Fashion Week trends... 

Erdem

David Koma

Burberry

VICTORIANA
Romantic Victorian notes, such as high collars and ruffles, were seen on otherwise directional designs in London. 

Roksanda

Paul Smith

Christopher Kane

GRAPHIC FLORALS
Florals for spring strive towards groundbreaking as they are reimagined in punchy hues, and as embellishments and 3D detailing.

Versus Versace

Mulberry

Burberry

MILITARY MIGHT
London's love for the military trend shows no sign of waning, with updated versions of the style seen at Versus Versace, Mulberry and Burberry. 

J.W. Anderson

Emilia Wickstead

Simone Rocha

STATEMENT SLEEVES
Exaggerated sleeves were the focus again this season, showing up as bishop, balloon and bell styles, with circular flounce and puff details. 

Preen by Thornton Bragazzi

J.W. Anderson

Mulberry

HANDKERCHIEF HEMS
This flattering hemline trend is a nod to the 70s and 80s, creating an edgy architectural vibe at J.W. Anderson, Mulberry, and Preen.

Mary Katrantzou

J.W. Anderson

Daks

STATEMENT EARRINGS
Gird your lobes. Spring/Summer '17 statement jewelry is all about big bold earrings with artistic touches. 

Photos: vogue.com/elleuk.com

Trends At New York Fashion Week

Being first, we naturally look to New York Fashion Week to officially set the mood of the season. Here's what they gave us for Spring/Summer '17...

Rosie Assoulin

Delpozo

Proenza Schouler

GET IN LINE
Stripes brought a spring-fresh feel to the September runways in bold colorways, providing a dramatic contrast to the previous season's pared-back, barely there story.

Carolina Herrera

Carolina Herrera

Akris

HI, SOCIETY
Crisp ladylike whites channelled fashion's high society heroines, providing an ultra-elegant way to stay cool. 

Narcisco Rodriguez

Prabal Gurung

Boss

SORBET HUES
Soft gelato shades elevated simple, summer-ready styles into eye-catching looks, bringing a cheerful tone for Spring/Summer '17.

Jonathan Simkhai

Cushnie et Ochs

Dennis Basso

GRIN AND BARE IT
Nude tones, ranging from skin to blush, were big in New York, acting as a perfect palette cleanser for fashion's current maximalist mood.

Tome

Zimmermann

Oscar de la Renta

FRILL-SEEKING
Still going strong for spring, ruffles adorned many designers' collections, softening silhouettes and adding a touch of flamboyance to the season's styles.

DKNY

Self-Portrait

Monse

PIN-UP
Once the preserve of city types, the pinstripe continues to be co-opted by designers. This traditional pattern was given a creative twist for spring/summer, with ruffles, drawstring waists and deconstruction bringing the pinstripe up to date.

Carolina Herrera

Marchesa

Narcisco Rodriguez

SILVER AGE
Flashes of silver stole many a show in New York, with dazzling modern metallics for both day and night firm runway favorites. 

Photos: harpersbazaar.com/vogue.com

Retreat: Experience The Ancient Practice Of Qigong In Bhutan

It seems that attaining mindfulness has never been more important than it is now. Especially for someone like me who spends their time immersed in decision-making and business, the ability to detach from worries has become an art that I’ve spent my life perfecting. I love meditation, but there comes a point every few months where there is a need to take it to the next level and really cultivate the best possible energy and fortify the mind-body connection. Which means Qigong, an ancient Chinese health care system that integrates physical postures, breathing techniques and focused intention.

So when my teacher and friend David Melladew, an Oriental Medicine Consultant, invited me to Uma by COMO in Paro, Bhutan for a week-long retreat he was hosting, I was in. There’s no better place to practice Qigong than Bhutan, a Buddhist kingdom in the Himalayas, a land of monasteries, fortresses and dramatic landscapes.

The word Qigong (Chi Kung) is made up of two Chinese words. Qi is pronounced 'chee' and is usually translated to mean the life force or vital-energy that flows through all things. The second word, Gong, means accomplishment, or skill that is cultivated through steady practice. Together, Qigong means cultivating energy, and is a system practiced for health maintenance, healing and increasing vitality.

For someone who wants to go on an authentic spiritual retreat but needs a certain comfort level, the COMO Shambhala is perfect. The rooms are minimalist but fantastic, the views are spectacular, and the spa offers many kinds of ayurvedic treatments.

The menu is perfectly suited to the spiritual mood of the retreat, but by no means boring. I would start the day with a green juice and Shambhala muesli with live mango yoghurt, freshly grated apple and almond milk.

Each day, practice included morning and afternoon Qigong sessions that took us through a set called ‘The Eight Animals’, centred around a key element of Taoist philosophy. There were also morning meditations, hikes into the surrounding mountains, visits to local monasteries, as well as philosophical talks about Qigong and Taoist practices – which I may have enjoyed the most.

I would end the day with a hot stone bath and massage. This Bhutanese therapy uses hot river stones which have been placed in a bath where they crack and steam, releasing key minerals for relieving deep-set aches and pains.

To start, I would recommend attending a few Qigong classes in your local area. But for an all-around rejuvenating experience – a point where you really want to hit reset – the COMO Shambhala is the perfect getaway. 

Find out about David’s next retreat here.

Fashion In The Time Of Brexit: What's Next

Since the UK's surprising vote out of Europe in June, the reaction among the fashion industry has been mostly negative, prompting fears that center around immigration and the devaluation of the Pound, the threat of the end of free trade, clothing price increases and the loss of foreign talent.

In a timely event, considering we’ve had the summer to digest, the British Fashion Council’s Fashion Trust held a talk at London’s South Kensington Club titled ‘Brexit: First Reactions’ hosted by BFC CEO Caroline Rush and featuring a talk with Carmen, Fashion Trust benefactor, and Hugh Devlin, a leading high-fashion lawyer who has worked with many designers and has overseen some of the biggest deals in the industry. Press, designers, business and brand owners attended the talk.

While Carmen assured us she agrees that Brexit wasn’t necessarily the best outcome, her outlook is far more positive than most. It may have something to do with the fact that she steered her own business during a military coup de é’tat attempt in her native Caracas in the nineties, but Carmen advised the crowd to shrug it off and focus on what they can control. Namely, technology and good old-fashioned salesmanship.

“Forget about Brexit for a second, and empower personal shoppers, sales and customer care people if you want your fashion business to succeed. What England – and Europe – lacks, is a sense of pride in selling. Everyone wants to be a stylist. What happened with personal shoppers?” The statement drew chuckles from the crowd, who are all too aware of this focus on hierarchy and prestige in the industry.

“Our business without salespeople would be nothing. We should make it fun and glamorous for them too. They are the number-one people. There’s creativity and there’s talent, but what do we do with that if we cannot sell our talent?”, Carmen questioned.

Hugh recalled an example from a conversation with Carmen regarding the hospitality industry. “People go to hotelier schools, and they learn several languages, and it is understood that they start at the bottom, as a waiter or as a busboy, but there’s always a sense of pride. In fashion however it seems there is a stigma attached to anything that’s not at the top of your game.”

To contrast Carmen adds that in Spain and Latin America, pride of service comes naturally. “We overdo it sometimes, but it’s time to bring some humility back to the industry.”

"Everyone wants to be a stylist. What happened with personal shoppers?"

As the talk went on to how to use technology to strengthen the B2C relationship, Instagram naturally came into question, with Carmen being adamant that the platform is great for selling and promoting your brand. You just have to get creative. She admits that she often gets tagged randomly by brands as a call to discover the product, and sometimes it works.

When expanding, Carmen advised the businesses in the audience to control growth and try to get the maximum of direct sales, by taking higher margins with their wholesale accounts to lessen risk.

She advised that 70% own-sales revenue and 30% wholesale would be the ultimate goal. “The more you depend on wholesale, the more vulnerable you are.”

While the post-Brexit kinks get ironed out, and we figure out a way to keep attracting and retaining talent in London, it seems there are things we can do to keep businesses strong. In essence, get back to basics. Just focus on the sell, whether on the floor or on the feed.

An Evening Honoring Carolina Herrera

Photo: vogue.com

Carolina Herrera is currently celebrating an impressive 35 years at the forefront of fashion, and the Venezuelan-born US-based designer will become the first American designer to be awarded The Women’s Leadership Award at the Lincoln Center’s Corporate Fund Gala this anniversary year.

Carolina’s unique contribution to fashion, culture and design will be the subject of an exclusive, one-night-only installation during the Lincoln Center Gala, which is being held on Tuesday, 6th December at Manhattan’s Alice Tully Hall. In receiving the prestigious Women’s Leadership Award, she will join the roll call of previous recipients which include Karl Lagerfeld, Stella McCartney and Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli.

As the first Venezuelan designer to achieve international success, Carmen credits Carolina with giving much needed confidence and inspiration to fellow creatives in her home country. “She was the first one. She is also very elegant and the perfect ambassador for her brand”, Carmen says.

The gala, now a firm fixture on the fashion calendar, is an annual celebration of creativity, which to date has raised almost $4 million for the fund’sartistic, educational and community outreach programs. Fellow Venezuelan Carmen is among the co-chairs of this year’s event, alongside Harper’s Bazaar’s Glenda Bailey and Gabriela and Austin Hearst, Lincoln Center's Katherine Farley, Hearst's Steven R. Swartz, Audrey Gruss, Susan and John Jess, and Marigay Mckee and Bill Ford.

Carolina Herrera's first collection, 1981

Carolina Herrera, now 77, founded her label back in 1981. Following a move to New York, and with encouragement from friend and the then Vogue editor-in-chief Diana Vreeland, she began creating her own designs. Today, the brand is home to a bridal collection, fragrances and a range of accessories, as well as its signature ready-to-wear, and is carried by over 280 stores across 105 countries.

Carolina with Diana Vreeland at the Metropolitan Club in New York, 1981

Led by tradition rather than trends, Ms Herrera’s elegant, refined clothes have graced the corridors of the White House as well as innumerable red carpets, worn by the likes of Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis, Michelle Obama and Renée Zellweger. “For me, fashion is about originality, sophistication and beauty,” she told the Washington Post. “I’m not in the fashion business; I’m in the beauty business”. In recognition of her inherent sophistication, she has featured on several best-dressed lists during her decades-long career.

Carolina Herrera's Spring/Summer 2017 Collection / Photo: vogue.com

Often captured in a crisp, white shirt, the designer’s personal style exemplifies elegance. “But she is more than the perfect white shirt,” said Bazaar’s Glenda Bailey, “Carolina Herrera is class personified".

Stay tuned for our coverage of the event.

Why I Feel The Fear And Do It Anyway

Carmen photographed by Diana Gomez at Claridges Hotel in London, Styled by Mauro Durant, Make-Up by Michael Furlonger

If you know Carmen, it wouldn’t be a stretch to say that she’s something of a posterchild for fearlessness. This is the woman who carried on working through a military coup-d’état in Caracas, got seriously stern with French luxury fashion bosses in the 90s when she was just in her early 20s so they would allow her to sell in Latin America, invested a whopping amount of that hard-earned money into Natalie Massenet’s then-unheard of idea when no one else would, and then stood up to Richemont bosses in the dealings of the 2015 merger and valuation of Net-a-Porter.

Let alone the fear that tends to plague women most of all - marriage. Carmen has decided not to marry, a feat in today’s society, which never seems to take the pressure off. And particularly for someone who comes from a Latin background, who shielded herself from the machismo mentality that ensues there.

So how does she do it? “I’m not afraid of facing my fears. It’s not that I don’t feel fear, it’s just that you have to recognize that you feel fear, but you say ‘this is what I am afraid of, so I’m going to go towards it’”, Carmen explains. It brings to mind the 1987 cult self-help book Feel The Fear And Do It Anyway by Susan Jeffers. Carmen assures me she has a copy.

“But there can be a healthy amount of fear, sometimes it’s good”, she adds. “There is a fearless trait that I believe also comes from our family, from the Cuban side.” (They fought in the Cuban revolution.) “And I mean, my brother died of Russian roulette - you shouldn’t disguise fear with adrenaline. You need to analyse and understand it. Fear gives you a perspective of your limitations, and helps you see whether you want to challenge yourself or not, and your motivations for wanting to.”

Confused as to whether she is pro or anti fear, I ask her how she is able to discern between what a healthy amount of fear is, and when it’s destructive – how do you know where do you draw the line? “Meditation” she answers.

'Fear gives you a perspective of your limitations, and helps you see whether you want to challenge yourself or not, and your motivations for wanting to.'

Carmen’s dedication to meditation and other mindfulness practices, something she is increasingly becoming a big advocate of, have always been her way of countering the fear that comes with having her life. And it pays off – evidenced by the fact that despite having ups and downs in business, her intuition has been so well-honed that she continues to invest in those she believes in, evidenced by her growing portfolio of companies.

Another fear that she’s had to overcome more and more in recent years is public speaking. Being half-deaf and dyslexic, worrying about saying things correctly and hearing well enough to engage with someone while being on stage is anxiety-inducing in the best of us. Carmen says she’s knocked this one out too, knowing she has a lot more value to add by getting up there, sharing expertise and inspiring others.

“What still scares you, then?” I ask, trying to poke holes. “Marriage” she says and laughs, but then pauses to reflect. “It’s actually not marriage that scares me, but more the idea of dependency – having to depend on someone else. I don’t believe in marriage the same way I don’t believe in institutionalized religion, and I think our goal as women is to really learn to not be co-dependent when it comes to men, but healthily interdependent. We do need people – no man is an island, but at the end of the day it’s your own decisions that result in your survival and your success.”

Navajo Nation

In aim of scouting special locations to host QiGong and wellness retreats around the world, Carmen recently travelled to Navajo County in northern Arizona - a land of spectacular eroded rock and geological formations stretching back 180 million years. Making her way from Kayenta, through Monument Valley, Antelope Canyon and several Indian reservations, Carmen got a good taste of this magical part of the US, which contains the greatest concentration of National Parks and National Monuments in the country.

Carmen stayed at the Amangiri Hotel, which offered stunning desert views from her suite. Amangiri opened in 2009 (and is consistently full year-round). The name means “peaceful mountain,” is one of the newest outposts of Aman Resorts, the Singapore-based company that specializes in developing small, exclusive resorts in extraordinary and often out-of-the-way places. Combining luxury and wilderness, the resort is only a 20-minute drive from the Glen Canyon Dam end of Lake Powell and a stunning 4.5-hour-drive from Las Vegas.

Carmen did a road trip, stopping in small towns and Indian reservations in Navajo County's desertlands. 

“One of the most extraordinary things I encountered on the trip was this enigmatic woman at a reservation. She was singing to herself while weaving, but was so soulful, and present.”

While there are other deserts and remote lands to visit and consider for the wellness route Carmen is putting together (Qigong Around The World), Navajo County is a definite yes.

Instant Gratification: The See Now, Buy Now Era

As fashion weeks become increasingly public, designers are seeking ever-elaborate ways to elevate the traditional runway show to appeal to the social-media savvy. With New York Fashion Week now underway, we look at several designers who are embracing this new era by offering brand loyalists access to their collections, in-season, straight from the runway.

Photo: vogue.com

Tom Ford

Last season, Tom Ford eschewed fashion’s traditional physical presentation in favor of a Nick Knight-directed film featuring Lady Gaga. But last night, the Texan designer kicked off New York Fashion Week by returning to the former tried and tested format, with a twist. Items from both his women’s and men’s Autumn/Winter 2016 collection were shown together at an intimate presentation at New York’s recently closed Four Season’s restaurant, which was simultaneously streamed live on the brand’s website. Being his debut ‘See Now, Buy Now’ presentation, both lines were presented for sale immediately after the show, accompanied by the launch of select cosmetics, a new fragrance and eyewear.

Photo: theimpression.com

Tommy Hilfiger

No stranger to the elaborate show set, Tommy Hilfiger is poised to launch a two-day consumer-facing fashion extravaganza this Fashion Week season. Branded #TommyNow, the event, which starts on Friday, will see New York’s South Street Pier 16, temporarily renamed Tommy Pier, playing host not only to a traditional runway show, but fairground rides, including a 40-foot Ferris wheel, hot dog stands and pop-up shops. The ticketed show, which will be attended by fans of the brand as well as the usual fashion folk, will introduce Tommy Hilfiger’s capsule collaboration with model Gigi Hadid, and feature select ready-to-wear pieces from the designer’s Autumn/Winter 2016 collection, originally unveiled in February. And like his contemporary Tom Ford, every item will be available to purchase immediately, both online and from Tommy Hilfiger stores worldwide.

Photo: fashiontimes.com

Rebecca Minkoff

An early adopter of the ‘See Now, Buy Now’ model, Californian-born New York-based designer Rebecca Minkoff, who introduced a shoppable show #seebuywear back in February, is continuing her role as industry disruptor this season. On Saturday, her #runwaytoretail event, which will see the vast majority of pieces shown available to buy instantly, will take place outdoors, in front of her flagship store on Soho’s Greene Street, and for an audience of both trade and consumers.

Photo: stylecartel.com

Opening Ceremony

Scheduled for Sunday, 11th September, Opening Ceremony’s ‘Pageant of the People’ will see designers Carol Lim and Humberto Leon take their unique interpretation of fashion week presentations to yet another level. Perhaps most famous for their 2014 Spike Jonze play, this season it’s comedy that has been mooted as the duo’s medium of choice. Showcasing another in-season collection, details surrounding the event are currently scant, but Portlandia’s Fred Armisen and Carrie Brownstein are thought to be hosting the show, to be joined by an array of special guests including Whoopi Goldberg, so needless to say expectations are high.

The traditional runway show continues to evolve, reflecting our increasingly digital age and the demands of today’s fashion consumers. But while this may be seen as inevitable, accepted and indeed embraced by designers, the decision to show in-season has divided opinion. The designers we have featured here are among a handful on the New York Fashion Week schedule who have opted to present their Autumn/Winter 2016 collections to the press and public over the next nine days, rather than unveiling next season’s spring offering as would be expected. Others, including Diane von Furstenberg and Kate Spade, have taken a different approach to the change, opting for more intimate, industry-focused presentations to present next season’s collections, while each planning consumer-led in season launch events next year. It remains to be seen whether New York is leading the charge for a change in the schedule, or whether tradition will win out.