Rick Owens Spring/Summer '17

Many in the industry say that the Rick Owens show is the one they look forward to the most. Steeped in concepts that hit deep, there is always a certain magic that fills the concrete basement of Palais de Tokyo where Owens shows. This is down to the clothes, and the styling, of course, but also the choice of music, and the ideas of the man himself. An American in Paris, Owens’s observations and reflections are borne out of a uniquely sharp perspective on some of humanity’s big questions.

His last season collection explored extinction and evolution, and this Spring/Summer ’17 took this concept further by being centred around fragility, and with the hauntingly romantic “Wild is The Wind” and "Black is The Color of My True Love's Hair" by Nina Simone as the soundtrack, one might even say, vulnerability. He himself listens to Simone every day. “Her voice lends itself to the idea of fragility because her voice can be quite thin and wavering, but she has the power and the confidence to manipulate it and make it convincing”, he explained backstage. 

Sartorially, Owens conveyed the message in draped linen tulle in cloud-like forms around the body, and billowy 'fog coats' - floor-length capes made of individual ostrich strands knotted together, created by Maison Lemarié, the legendary Parisian plumassier. 

“It seemed like the right time to do something quiet for me. I thought I could get away with doing something quiet this season.” With the added element of an increased variation of color, the slightly more feminine silhouettes and the overall lightness of this collection, it was his most beautiful to date, particularly for those Rick fans slightly less towards the avant-garde end of the spectrum.

Roger Vivier SS17 By Bruno Frisoni

Bruno Frisoni unveiled his Spring/Summer '17 collection at the Maison de L'Amérique Latine as part of Paris Fashion Week yesterday, where we caught up with the designer to find out more about this season's inspirations. 

Creative director of the house since 2004, Mr Frisoni has famously revived Roger Vivier, achieving the elusive yet sought-after balance of heritage and innovation. Another key factor of his success has been imaging how the wearer feels with the shoes on. "I like shoes that give a smile, that when you look down at them you smile and feel happy. It's a great feeling. And then also for sure, sexy."

SS17 for Mr Frisoni was underpinned by a sense of the urban nomad - a woman who travels but is Parisienne at heart, imbued with her own unique sense of luxury and sophistication. The muted colour palette and softly shaded leathers were inspired by a sweeping desert.

Laser-cut leather guipure was a key story of the season, seen as part of a standout pair of thigh-high boot-sandals (something the Vivier woman would surely wear upon arrival to her destination to mark her entry) and sensuous pointed-toe ankle boots.

The Roger Vivier Spring/Summer '17 collection also included the most elegant collection of sneakers on the market, playing with multi-coloured stones and satin. 

The sharpest sense of Mr Frisoni's perceived traveller was seen in this black satin story, where a classic pair of crystal-buckled Vivier slingback was displayed next to their espadrille counterpart, creating a compelling sense of the RV woman from day-to-night.

And where does Mr Frisoni himself like to venture to? "I love to go to Ibiza, Tangiers, whatever is along the Mediterranean. I love it." Surely the Roger Vivier customer does too, and with the collection's extraordinarily ornate finishes, she's almost certainly smiling. 

Elie Saab Spring/Summer '17

"It's all about dancing - the disco, the seventies!", exclaimed Elie Saab backstage prior to unveiling his Spring/Summer '17 collection, and his 'Standing on Stardust' show didn't disappoint.

It was an afternoon of star-spangled glamour at the Tuileries, with an array of star motifs adorning almost every piece shown on the designer's dazzling runway, and on some of the biggest names in the modelling industry including Karlie Kloss, Gigi Hadid, Romee Strijd and Sara Sampaio. From rainbow brights on thigh-skimming dresses and floor-sweeping capes, to more subtle but no less dramatic black designs scattered over sheer insets and billowy blouses, the stellar motif was certainly in the ascendance.

Flashes of metallic complemented the glitter-dusted runway evoking the golden age of disco theme.  And the designer also added a sporty edge to his brand of unashamed glamour, featuring bomber jackets and baseball caps, sequinned of course, for a cool, contemporary touch. 

Signature show-stopping gowns, in primary colors and with plunging necklines, were also reassuringly present, complemented by a clutch of fluid, wide-legged trousers and seventies-style jumpsuits. The Elie Saab customer will certainly be party-ready next season, wherever and however the mood takes her. 

Photos: theimpression.com/vogue.com

Trends At Milan Fashion Week

Milan's fashion moment was a lesson in Italian showmanship and a celebration of individual style. Here are the key looks from the city's Spring/Summer '17 catwalks... 

Dolce & Gabbana

Marco de Vincenzo

Gucci

HIGH-SHINE
In keeping with fashion’s current maximalist mood, designers in Milan didn’t hold back when it came to sequins and sparkle, creating statement-making party-ready clothes for spring.

Versace

Prada

Fausto Puglisi

KALEIDOSCOPIC PRINTS
Prints again played to the prevailing maximalist mood, with eye-popping color pairings creating dramatic daytime looks.

Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini

Giamba

Alberta Ferretti

ELEVATED BOHO
Haute bohemian styles took a historical turn with elegantly ruffled collars and sweeping floor length hems setting a new romantic standard.

Dolce & Gabbana

Ermanno Scervino

Fendi

SHEER PERFECTION
See-through looks were another Milan favourite, with many spring styles continuing the alluring conceal-and-reveal trend of past seasons. 

Versace

Marni

Max Mara

DRAWSTRING DETAILS
Sportswear continued to have a presence on the Italian runways, with athletic references such as drawstring ties appearing on performance-inspired styles as well as adding a modern edge to more traditional designs. 

MSGM

No 21

Versace

THE HOLE STORY
From micro-mesh to nautical inspired netting, punctuated fabrics were used to add interest to both the elegant and the athletic, a refreshingly softer take on the fabric’s usual subversive styling.

Photos: vogue.com / theimpression.com

Inside Dolce & Gabbana's 400-Guest Dinner

Following on from their Alta Moda street festival-style spectacular in Naples back in July, we were not surprised when Stefano Gabbana and Domenico Dolce chose to hold a similar showstopping event after their Spring/Summer '17 show to mark the opening of their new Milan store.

The show itself, with a Tropicano Italiano theme, saw models, flanked by street performers, take to a palm tree-lined runway complete with coconut vendors, in a vibrant celebration of Italian culture. The designers had announced before the event that their starting point was “ the desire to tell our story, reveal an emotion, a way of life”,  and the collection, which included typically exotic and ornately embellished designs, as well as quirky Italian cuisine prints and tropical island references, certainly embodied the duo’s familiar fun-loving aesthetic. 

Robert Norton, Carmen, Marpessa Hennink

The fun-filled atmosphere continued after the show at a street party on the Via Montenapoleone. The luxury shopping street, home of the brand’s new boutique, played host to 400 guests. We dined on French fries and all-you-can-eat desserts from the seemingly endless table. 

Carmen with Mira Duma and Marpessa Hennink

An unforgettable night with Milan at its most magical.

Chloé Spring/Summer '17

Clare Waight Keller gave showgoers and seasoned followers of Chloé something different from what they expected to see for its Spring/Summer ’17 show.  The clothes, although still as gauzy and romantic and frilly as ever, were sharper, more structured.

Keller described it as a new view on Frenchness and credited her new perspective to moving back to London. Sometimes one needs distance to see things clearly, and for Keller, it was a new sense of the Chloé customers’ competing good-girl bad-girl dualities.

There were childlike overalls with a bare back. And a simple white cotton laced top with undone laces at the sides. 

There was also a new pant shape which balloons into the ankles, finished with nautical touches. 

Big floppy bows on the shoulders on several looks looked girlish and sophisticated all at once. 

One wouldn’t be surprised if SS17 ends up being one of Chloé’s most commercial collections to date. It was certainly one of the most beautiful.